Balancing modernity and speed with tradition and care
A research thesis discussed at the University of Milan which, through the analysis of the fashion industry, reveals a significant leap forward in production culture
Balancing sustainability with competitiveness, and tradition with modernity. These are objectives common to most Italian companies, and are becoming increasingly urgent for some sectors. Fashion companies, in particular, are under pressure to balance the need for constant speed and change with the need to make their activities increasingly environmentally friendly. All without losing sight of the product’s essence in terms of quality and originality.
These are the themes on which Serena Autorino based her PhD thesis, which was recently discussed at the University of Milan. ‘Valorizzazione dell’Heritage, Circolarità, Vintage e Upcycling. Opportunità per le aziende per una Moda più Sostenibile’ (Embracing heritage, circularity, vintage and upcycling. Opportunities for companies for more sustainable fashion) is a comprehensive and in-depth analysis of the complex and ongoing transformation of the fashion industry, which is caught between the need for increased competitiveness and its responsibility to consider the environmental and social impact of its actions.
Although Autorino’s study initially focuses on contradictions, it ultimately recognises several positive examples within the Italian corporate landscape. ‘While such a wide-ranging issue still seems far from being resolved,’ the author explains, ‘it is important to recognise that many companies are making great efforts to offer products, implement more ethical production cycles, and positively influence the system by collaborating with external actors.’ Among the cases cited are those of Ermenegildo Zegna and Successori Reda in the Biella district, and Rifò Lab, a Prato-based brand that makes garments from regenerated fabrics. The aim was also to look at brands that exploit upcycling, as well as small, vintage-related businesses with contemporary and innovative approaches that put garments from the past back into circulation while catering to the needs and tastes of new generations.
Serena Autorino’s work highlights the importance of a circular system that starts with design and ends with the management of end-of-life garments, for which companies and consumers alike are responsible.
However, her research does not stop there, as further relevant aspects that emerge are the historical Italian practice of textile recovery, which has great potential for the future; the value of corporate archives, which offer inspiration for capsule collections, projects, and more conscious design by preserving and reinterpreting the past, thereby promoting quality and durability; the emergence of second hand and vintage as increasingly popular consumer choices; the use of heritage in the strategies of some Italian luxury brands, which demonstrates the central role of tradition in driving change; the importance of raising awareness and education for both the future generation of designers and consumers. In short, Serena Autorino takes her cue from the complex and diverse Italian fashion system to outline a significant leap forward in production culture.
Serena Autorino
PhD thesis, University of Milan, Doctorate Course in Historical Studies, Cycle XXXVII, Department of Historical Studies, 2024
A research thesis discussed at the University of Milan which, through the analysis of the fashion industry, reveals a significant leap forward in production culture
Balancing sustainability with competitiveness, and tradition with modernity. These are objectives common to most Italian companies, and are becoming increasingly urgent for some sectors. Fashion companies, in particular, are under pressure to balance the need for constant speed and change with the need to make their activities increasingly environmentally friendly. All without losing sight of the product’s essence in terms of quality and originality.
These are the themes on which Serena Autorino based her PhD thesis, which was recently discussed at the University of Milan. ‘Valorizzazione dell’Heritage, Circolarità, Vintage e Upcycling. Opportunità per le aziende per una Moda più Sostenibile’ (Embracing heritage, circularity, vintage and upcycling. Opportunities for companies for more sustainable fashion) is a comprehensive and in-depth analysis of the complex and ongoing transformation of the fashion industry, which is caught between the need for increased competitiveness and its responsibility to consider the environmental and social impact of its actions.
Although Autorino’s study initially focuses on contradictions, it ultimately recognises several positive examples within the Italian corporate landscape. ‘While such a wide-ranging issue still seems far from being resolved,’ the author explains, ‘it is important to recognise that many companies are making great efforts to offer products, implement more ethical production cycles, and positively influence the system by collaborating with external actors.’ Among the cases cited are those of Ermenegildo Zegna and Successori Reda in the Biella district, and Rifò Lab, a Prato-based brand that makes garments from regenerated fabrics. The aim was also to look at brands that exploit upcycling, as well as small, vintage-related businesses with contemporary and innovative approaches that put garments from the past back into circulation while catering to the needs and tastes of new generations.
Serena Autorino’s work highlights the importance of a circular system that starts with design and ends with the management of end-of-life garments, for which companies and consumers alike are responsible.
However, her research does not stop there, as further relevant aspects that emerge are the historical Italian practice of textile recovery, which has great potential for the future; the value of corporate archives, which offer inspiration for capsule collections, projects, and more conscious design by preserving and reinterpreting the past, thereby promoting quality and durability; the emergence of second hand and vintage as increasingly popular consumer choices; the use of heritage in the strategies of some Italian luxury brands, which demonstrates the central role of tradition in driving change; the importance of raising awareness and education for both the future generation of designers and consumers. In short, Serena Autorino takes her cue from the complex and diverse Italian fashion system to outline a significant leap forward in production culture.
Serena Autorino
PhD thesis, University of Milan, Doctorate Course in Historical Studies, Cycle XXXVII, Department of Historical Studies, 2024